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Power Charge Test (Dirty Injectors) REVISED 4-2011

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Brock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Power Charge Test (Dirty Injectors) REVISED 4-2011
    Posted: November/17/2009 at 4:35pm

Click Here for Dyno Chart: https://www.brocksperformance.com/images/Power_Charge_08Busa.jpg

Power Charge Test Results (Dirty Injectors etc.)

Guys,

I have been fighting with the problem of dirty injectors, gummed throttle bodies and inlets, as well as carbon-covered intake valves since the Busa stormed onto the performance scene in 1999. If you are a private owners group member, you know that the Gen 1 Busa section is filled with warnings and examples and pain in the ass cures which can sometimes create worse problems than they solve. I am not saying that we are 100% tested in regard to our Power Charge testing. I am saying that I am VERY EXCITED because it has performed well in EVERY application since we began testing it in the spring of 2009 and we have seen no ill affects whatsoever, regardless of its concentration or length of stay in the gas tank. It is hands down the most convenient and inexpensive way we have found to help our customers quickly cure an incredibly illusive problem that eventually affects nearly ALL sportbikes. Whether results are measured on a consistent basis (track or Dyno), or by the seat of the pants drivability (ass-o-meter), the likelihood of this problem creeping up on you goes down dramatically if it is attacked with a preventative program such as using Power Charge. The Dyno results shown here cannot be considered typical or consistent because the problem occurs in varying degrees. We have seen no gain at all in some race bikes and 15-20+ HP in street bikes over the years by cleansing the fuel system by various means. Amazingly, BRAND NEW/LOW MILEAGE bikes have noticed some of the LARGEST gains?! It is my belief that this could be attributed to an anti-corrosion treatment (such as Cosmoline or whatever) in the gas tanks before the long boat trip from Japan getting dislodged during the first fueling, but it must be considered speculation since we are unable to get a manufacturer to confirm this theory. Either way, Suzuki's have proven to be more likely to have power-killing problems than Kawasaki's, but we have seen this problem with both. Suzuki began offering an injector cleaner through their dealer network a couple of years ago, so they know there is a need, but in typical 'don't let them hurt themselves, or they might sue' fashion, it's a moderately effective product as far as I am concerned. I personally believe that significant increases in performance can be noticed by EVERY motorcycle on the road (fuel injected or carb's) which has ingested 'directly from the pump fuel' for 3 months straight without being subjected to rowdy oxygenated race fuels (VP MR9, MR11, etc...). I am compiling formal information for print, but I thought I would share my results with you in advance of publication because I know how frustrating it can be to leave the Dyno or track wondering if your engine is hurt and KNOWING that your pride is hurt when your baby doesn't perform.

Brock

**Clean fuel injectors are a must for peak engine performance and fuel economy**. If the injectors are dirty and can't deliver their normal dose of fuel, performance, drivability and fuel economy are all going to suffer. Dirty injectors can't flow as much fuel as clean ones, and they can't deliver the correct spray pattern that is so essential for clean, efficient combustion. Dirty injectors also disrupt known good mapping which hampers acceleration and overall performance at the track and on the street. This 2008 Busa only had 164 RWHP when we tested it as delivered in the spring, completely stock, before adding our ShortMeg, PC3usb and street map. All else is untouched stock: Suzuki 10-40 oil/stock chain/air cleaner/wheel bearings/dust seals-everything. It was a simple pc/pipe and go- -the same as if we would have sent him the items and he would have installed them himself. It made 178 RWHP (14 HP gain) when it left here in March with around 600 miles. FYI: Our new state of the art Dyno room and ventilation system reads considerably lower than our old Dyno set-up so we didn't really know what to expect and thought the gain was good since we didn't make any other changes to the bike. Note: It's not uncommon to coax another 10-15 hp out of a brand new bike by adding our Alisyn less than zero weight oil, Petron additive, installing and non o-ring chain, adding ceramic wheel bearings, installing a K&N or BMC race filter, etc. and stack another 5-7 on top of that with the addition on MR9 or MR11 fuel. The owner of the bike doesn't really drag race and saw no need to add all of the additional goodies. His main goal was to achieve a desired look and sound while also noticing a performance gain since he was opening his wallet. He was very happy when he left, although he did say that the peak numbers bothered him compared to what he had heard other Gen 2 Busa�s made on the Dyno. I explained to him that all Dyno's vary, and that the only thing that really mattered was the fact that he picked up 14 hp and lost 25 lbs. by simply bolting on the pipe, pc and map. I also felt his bike would get stronger as he put some miles on it� This week the owner, called my staff because his bike "didn't feel right and didn't sound right" and was worried that it was hurt after "beating it up the highway" this summer. He asked if the mapping "somehow became richer" because it was not as smooth to ride as when he picked it up in the spring, and it had began developing extra black soot on the exhaust tip. He said his fuel mileage was down as well, and thought this was perhaps due to his new 'rich' condition. We told him that we would throw it up on the Dyno to make sure it wasn't hurt, and also check to make sure his mapping hadn't somehow changed (not likely, but you have to check while you have it on the Dyno anyway.) It only made 177 RWHP with a dip in the Air/Fuel reading through in the mid range. I also noticed small stumbles and A/F spikes during the initial Dyno ride. I checked to make sure his throttle position hadn't changed after so many street miles; it hadn't. His A/F ratio was straight when he left in the spring and his map and TPS had not been altered. Something had definitely changed and it wasn't related to the power commander or mapping. Typically, the very first thing we would do is drain his gas tank and run straight VP MR9 race fuel through it to try to 'cleanse' the injectors and intake track. This time, we decided to use a fuel system treatment that we have been testing throughout the year. I personally don't have the patience to wait for an over-the-counter fuel injection cleaner to eventually work and most brands usually make your bike run poorly while using it, which just adds insult to the injury. The MR9 trick works quickly, but it is expensive, and sometimes nearly impossible to find depending upon where you live. It can also create other problems, such as fuel pump failure, if you leave it in the tank too long. It all sounds like more trouble than it's worth, but we have seen some bikes pick up nearly 20 hp after cleansing the fuel system, and to a performance minded enthusiast 20 hp is worth recovering at nearly ANY expense! We drained the old fuel and added a full 16 oz. can of Power Charge mixed with 2 gallons of pump gas and rode just 10 miles on Dyno. To prevent the hassle of draining the tank in the future, we would now just add an entire can to the tank with the fuel gauge reading between and 1/8 and 1/4 of a tank and go for a ride. The results were AMAZING! 185 HP and no more A/F dips! Please notice that the charts have an identical shape and the tests were performed within about an hour after draining the tank and running the Power Charger mix through the engine for 10 miles. Power Charge can also be used as a power adder with no map changes required! This stuff works GREAT. Smile 

 
Brock

Power Charger Fuel System Treatment Brocks Part #: 771175 16 FL OZ can Retail $33.95 Ground shipment only in continental US. Click Here to Order: http://www.brocksperformance.com/Wynns-Power-Charge-+I771175+C80.aspx

Power Charge contains patented technology designed to boost power and improve overall drivability. Power Charge combines a combustion catalyst with premium fuel detergents that remove deposits from injector's valves and combustion chambers. Power charge also contains corrosion inhibitors and water disbursements. You will feel the increased performance with the first application regular use will clean and help maintain your fuel system. Safe for catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. Formulated to: Treat entire fuel system, injectors, valves and combustion chamber. Boost Power and Performance Increase Fuel Economy

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Post Options Post Options   Quote iuoe37 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/23/2009 at 9:22pm

Brock,  Do you know of a product called Marvel mystery oil ? My old master machanic told me about this stuff thirty years ago. I used it in my truck and cars. The real test of this product came in the late eighties. I was doing jet changes on my  Flatslides for my GSXR1100. When I looked in the intake ports, the carbon was terrible.  I then added the mystery oil. After one tank of gas I pulled the carbs for another jet change. To my surprise the carbon was completly gone, valves clean , ports and chamber look like they had been polished. This stuff cleans , and lubricates, pump,injectors, rings, upper cylinder walls and valve stems. It also keeps fuel from varnishing during storage. It's all I ever used. It's all my 02 Busa has used. I put the Gen. 2 on at 11,000 mi. it now has 24,000 mi. and has the same power. Love the pipe. I did have some gum in the throttle valves, that was the oil being sucked from the K&N. Put the stock back in, no more trouble.  You mix 4oz. for ten gal. of gas, and it's $ 12.00 a gal. at Wal-Mart.

Glen

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Brock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December/07/2009 at 2:45pm

iuoe37,

I have some customers who swear by Marvel Mystery oil.

Its been a long time since I tested it (late 90s).But I saw no favorable results whatsoever in a reduction of intake gum or varnish and no positive results on the dyno afterward on my personal GSX-R1100 engines. (Sorry-But it's GREAT for removing honing dust from cast iron cylinders!)

I dont believe they have EVER changed the formula? Not sure. But I have not tested it in a fuel injected bike. Ill try to get to it this winter.

Brock

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote KZScott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/04/2010 at 9:41pm
is this stuff ok to use with a tank that has been treated/coated with POR-15? I have 3 cylinders running a little leaner than #4 and want to give this a try instead of sending the injectors away to be cleaned. bike only gets pump gas
07 MDP Rookie of the Year
01 ZX-12R street/drag bike
8.97@ 155.7 NA (pump gas)
top speed in the 1/4: 161 MPH N2O
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Post Options Post Options   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/05/2010 at 6:21pm
No, but I would replace the tank and use the Wynns to clean the fuel system.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote KZScott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/05/2010 at 10:14pm
thanks, ill borrow a tank and run a few heat cycles before putting my half tank back on.
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01 ZX-12R street/drag bike
8.97@ 155.7 NA (pump gas)
top speed in the 1/4: 161 MPH N2O
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Quan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/27/2010 at 7:40pm
was want to use this stuff was wondering can it be used with mrxo1 an a 30 shot of nos on a stock busa
05busa 30shot of nos
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Post Options Post Options   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/28/2010 at 10:34am

Quan,

drain as much fuel out as you can, fill with 2 gal. of 87 octane pump gas and one can of power charge, go for a ride and run until almost gone.

then go back to MRX01 but do not leave in tank, the MR9,11,12 & X01 is not good to leave in tank and throttle bodies, drain and flush with pump gas.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote maxumis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/24/2010 at 8:45am
we dont get wynns power charge in australia i guess ill have to get some airrated fuel to clean the injectors
live once enjoy it
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Post Options Post Options   Quote NinjaNick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/25/2011 at 9:11pm
I will be putting this product to use this spring when I wake my 14 back up.

Thanks for the heads up!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Vladutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/14/2011 at 6:53am
I had same problem with my kawasaki zx12r. Full yoshimura system running with pc3. Bike started to run richer and richer. Black smoke and black deposits on the exhaust pipe. Rough iddle and missfires. The fuel tank and fuel filter were clean, no dirt, no rust. 
I think that pc3 is somehow related to this issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote bin01123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/15/2012 at 12:46am
Do you use the Power charge once a season? Or once the power charge is complete do you just go back with the Fuel injector cleaner
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/16/2012 at 9:28am
I would use it once a season just to make sure everything stays good and clean.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote bin01123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/24/2012 at 12:47am
I poured the Power Charge in just before I headed up to Road Atlanta this past weekend to see some riders manhandle their machines. So I rode for about an hour to and from the track at about 80 mph or better at times. I ran 87 gas in there. Should that be good?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/24/2012 at 8:50am
I am not sure how much gas that you had in the tank, we like to put the bottle in with about 2 gallons of gas, but that should be just fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote bin01123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/27/2012 at 8:31pm
Thanks. It was almost empty when I put the power charge in and then I added 2 gallons.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/30/2012 at 8:40am

Good deal, that will be just fine.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote bin01123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2012 at 6:12pm
Is it ok to ride around on the street using 87 gas or should 87 gas only be used when racing? I'm just checking because the owners manual swears against anything below 90 gas.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2012 at 9:31am
bin01123,
 
Use 87 octane on stock 99-07 Busa, 89 octane on others when using street map at track or on street.
Track map is for race fuel (MR12). Manufacturers recommend higher octane to keep bike from pinging but it kills power, as long as bike is not pinging you are good.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote bin01123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2012 at 12:22am
I have a 06 ZX10 and I've been using 87. I haven't heard any pinging so I guess I'm good.
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